When I Was About, I'd Say, 18

After Cannes Every Year, I End Up Going To Some Foreign Country I've Never Been To Before And Introducing Myself To A New Religion - I'll Go To Bali And Research Hinduism, Or I'll Go To Thailand And Get Another Tattoo From Thai Tattoo Artist Ajarn Noo Kanpai.

It's The Board I Had A Problem With. I Could Totally Handle Being In The Water And Stuff. I Came Here To Do My Own Stunts. Water! Ocean! Action! Big Waves! That Water, That Water Has Tamed Me. You Can Feel That The World Is Connected To It.

I Wanted To Write A Film And I Thought The Best Way To Do So Was To Train Myself Within The Field... It Was Just Like A Cycle Of People Trying To Make It, Not Making It, Doing Extra Work, And It Was Pretty Depressing In The End.

I Went To Business School But Left After Four Months Because I Just Didn't Want To Be A Puppet Of Society, Stuck In An Office, Craving Some Sunlight.

Sometimes I Wake Up In Awe That I'm Alive. I Can't Get Over That Part, So I Guess It Makes Me Kind Of Like An Existentialist.