Surfing Is My Religion, If I Have

I'm The Competitor, I'm The One Who Has To Wear The Brunt Of That Being A Good Or Bad Score. And I'm Not Too Worried About It. I Don't Know Why So Many Are To Be Honest With You.

Fatherhood Isn't Always A Planned Thing, But When It Happens You Just Do It. It's Very Natural And In That Sense It's Not Really Difficult.

Not To Sound Too Deep Or Weird, But I Assume That The Occasions Once You Pretty Take Pleasure In Surfing Are The Occasions You Are Extremely Kind Of Getting A Single With Nature.

I Didn't Think That Wave Was Going To Offer A Ton, ... But The Wave Just Held Form, And I Was Able To Get A Lot Out Of It.

Not To Sound Too Deep Or Weird, But I Think That The Times When You Really Appreciate Surfing Are The Times You're Really Sort Of Becoming One With Nature. Surfing's As Raw Of A Sport As It Gets.